Ambassadors Clubhouse, London W1: ‘A restaurant that wants to lead you astray’ – restaurant review

This is a site that demands full commitment to making each nook and cranny matter, otherwise, it is essentially a dark, creaky rabbit warren. Luckily, the Sethis’ grandfather actually was an Indian ambassador, stationed across the world, but with a summer party mansion in Dalhousie, formerly part of the historic Punjab, by which this paean to grandness, cocktails and snacking is inspired. This is a restaurant that seemingly wants to lead you astray, with three types of margaritas, one of which you can buy by the 1½-litre bottle for £200. There are shots with names like “Bad Chaat” and “Old Monk Café XO”; a “Patiala Peg” is served tableside with ceremony, along with an accompanying legend about the Maharaja Sir Bhupinder Singh who invented it.