Giovanni’s, London: ‘Exactly what you want it to be’ – restaurant review

What defines all of these is a deft ability to laugh in the face of the changing times, while not becoming a prisoner to their own history. They have remained very much themselves, while also quietly modernising, but not too fast or too much. Rather like this magazine, as it marks its 60th birthday. Rules will never serve a pan-Asian, small-plates sharing menu. Mon Plaisir will never offer a deconstructed boeuf bourguignon. But in time things have moved on, just enough to make sense.