Ham hock, Guinness bread, grilled mackerel: recipes from the Cafe Cecilia cookbook

Rocha had reasons to be anxious. He had cooked at some of London’s best restaurants – Spring, St John Bread & Wine, the River Cafe – but, at 32, he had no experience of running his own kitchen. “I wasn’t ready for it,” he admits. His family were hugely supportive but they set a high bar. His father is the designer John Rocha; his older sister, Simone, runs a cult fashion label. He felt intense pressure to match up. “My dad started out with nothing and he smashed it,” says Rocha, “and I wanted to do the same.”