Nigel Slater’s recipes for lemon and passion fruit choux, and lamb steaks, marsala, apricots

You could make neat little buns if you have a piping bag in the kitchen. I prefer them to be less uniform. I made my first batch of choux buns at cookery school in Paris and was given the absurdly difficult task of piping them full of strawberry sorbet. Glorious to eat if you were quick – and we were – but imagine the mess. So now I stick to cream and the occasional flavouring.