Exceptional Thai Food at UnTable

Seared scallops and enoki mushrooms grace a gorgeously creamy Tom Kha chowder, a December special, derived from a paste of galangal, lime leaves, and lemongrass slow-cooked with coconut milk. Crab croquettes, under a wig of frizzled lemongrass and lime leaf, are a lovely prelude to that Chilean sea bass, E-San Style, lavish with moons of kabocha squash. For the spice-curious, the must-order dish is the WHAT THE HELL!! fried rice, labelled, on the menu, with twelve chili peppers. Upon its arrival to my table, not one but two gracious servers instructed us to first try the rice mounded in the center, already laden with some very spicy Thai chilies, before mixing in more chilies, along with bits of rolled egg, fried onion, sweet sautéed pork, mango, and green beans. Without the extra chili, it was more of a What the Heck experience; crank up the heat at your own risk. The sole dessert, a vivacious yuzu-basil sorbet, is a fitting précis of Kampimarn’s food—bracing and comforting at once. (Dishes $14-$38.) ♦