The Magellan of New York Foodies

“You have to be quick,” he said. “I went to a Nicaraguan spot around here on opening night and it closed a few months later. In 2020, there was a woman from Chad running a restaurant in the East Village for just a few weeks.” He is still haunted by the Togolese restaurant in the Bronx that closed before he could eat there, the shuttered Brooklyn bodega that promised Macedonian candy, and the Surinamese street vender who moved to Trenton before Doro could try his jerk pork.