Real-Deal Eccentricity, at Oti

On my first visit to the tiny space, the manager and co-owner, Dania Kim, walked me through a brief menu of three entrée-size plates and five smaller ones. Each of the bigger dishes, she explained, goes perfectly with a particular little-dish sidekick: what Popa calls “broken burrata”—Romanian Telemea cheese, dressed in edible flowers—next to a pepper-and-eggplant zacuscă dip, for example, or pickled-mushroom toast with char-blackened pickled hot peppers.