Exquisite Beach Vibes at Quique Crudo

Bad Hombre, in the East Village, another of a recent spate of Mexican seafood-and-cocktail spots, serves crudos and aguachiles along with snacks such as a lovely crisp-fried-cod tostada, in a sexy underground-clublike atmosphere. But Quique is in another league—as TikTok has noticed, making weekend dinner a waiting game. One Saturday after 10 p.m., two young women, dressed for a night out, grabbed the last two bar seats and promptly ordered cucumber-laced aguachile margaritas, oysters, and lobster ceviche—the last a deceptively modest-sounding dish featuring a whole tail, both claws, and the knuckles of a poached Maine lobster, gorgeously arrayed atop a whipped coconut-milk cloud spiked with ginger and salsa macha. The women were giddy with delight over the food, and they asked Aguilar if he wanted to party. He politely demurred, and they continued their feast unbothered. All that was missing was a sea breeze, but no one seemed to mind. (Dishes $18-$49.) ♦