Hyper-Telegenic Noodles, at Okiboru House of Udon

The signature dish here is the cold Himokawa udon. Served in a ceramic ring bowl that echoes in shape an oversized ring light that your fellow diner-cum-microinfluencer might use to document the blow-by-blow of ingestion, the noodles are beguilingly wide Möbius strips of silk: sleek, slippery, and impervious to even the most patient engagement with chopsticks. I recommend taking a bite with the readily supplied tongs (don’t be cocky) before dunking it in the dipping sauce, not because the sauce isn’t good (though it’s a smidge too salty for my taste, it clings pleasingly to the noodles) but because the diaphanous, bouncy streamers of wheat are best slurped without distraction.