Despite his objections, industry observers attribute Cucinelli’s success to the growing appeal of quiet luxury among the wealthy. “Luxury brands with a more discreet, less logo-driven aesthetic have been outperforming,” says Jelena Sokolova, an analyst at researcher Morningstar. The HBO series Succession started the trend, she says. (Co-star Alan Ruck wore a Brunello Cucinelli suit to the show’s final season premiere.) In the series, which chronicled familial dysfunction among the modern 1 Percent, the main characters sneered at flashy opulence as tacky tells of the nouveau riche. Cucinelli seems to share this prejudice. “I want our company to be exclusive,” he says. “Tomorrow we should be less known than we are today.”