Olives have been a hardy staple for thousands of years throughout the Mediterranean because the trees thrive in dry climates. But these days olive growers in Spain, Italy and Greece—the world’s top three producers—are struggling to keep their groves from getting too dry. Greece is a leading indicator: The smallest and poorest of the three countries, it’s focused on catering to buyers of high-quality extra-virgin oil and exports more than $1 billion worth of oil a year. Of the three, it’s also suffered the most climate damage, about $400 per capita in 2023, according to Eurostat, the European Union’s research office. Greek farmers who eke out a living with minimal technological assistance must now reckon with the growing risk of wildfires, which burned more than 11,000 acres of olive orchards last year.