GUARDIAN | Opinion
Spanish jamón is the best ham in the world – but culture warriors are reviving its dark history
西班牙火腿是世界上最好的火腿——但文化斗士们正在复兴它黑暗的历史

Legs of ham in a market in Tenerife, Spain.
2026-02-03 1012词 困难
For all the happiness it brings to people, jamón also has a darker history and it is one that is threatening to re-emerge in our present culture wars. The esteemed place jamón holds in Spanish culture has been used as a tool for social exclusion. The persecution of heretics during the Spanish Inquisition, beginning in 1478 and lasting almost four centuries, particularly targeted Christian converts from Judaism (conversos) or Islam (moriscos), who continued to practise their religion in secret. The consumption of jamón became a symbol of Catholic identity and therefore a huge part of Spanish public life. But it was also a way of excluding those who did not eat pork on grounds of their faith.
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