Upstream, beyond Lostwithiel – once Cornwall’s busiest port – the tower of St Bryvyta in Lanlivery is a landmark for miles around. Carved symbols on corbels of the tower include two lions clutching a stylised “tree of life”, their protruding tongues symbolising a powerful force against evil. Another strange image is of crowned figures holding a young head with flowing locks, set between a severed giant’s head and the flaming sun, maybe harking back to ancient beliefs and respect for seasonal renewal.