Wassailing is a cheerfully messy business – a somewhat moveable pagan feast that can happen any time in the weeks following Christmas. And around here, each place has its own distinct style and flavour. The wassail in Wiveliscombe is more for children, starts and finishes early, and is sweet and charming. It’s a pleasingly makeshift event, organised by a small juicing cooperative called Brendon Orchards, which, despite its name, has no orchard of its own.