Ruabon is the largest grouse moor in Wales, a colossal enterprise of more than 7,000 acres. In its heyday, in 1912, 1,774 grouse were once shot here in a day. There are barely any driven grouse shoots in Wales now, but here is a vast estate, managed for one specific bird to live a single summer then be killed. Other birds are killed too; last year, illegal snares were found arranged around a pit full of dead partridge, and many a hen harrier has mysteriously disappeared here.