Later, back at Andrea’s smallholding Al Norte del Sur, the air’s alive with bleating lambs and the scent of wood smoke. “Slow food is a kind of religion for me. It’s about quality; I’m not interested in scaling for profit,” she says, leading me through an unruly vegetable patch to an inviting dining room. “This is an extension of our family kitchen,” Andrea adds, pouring out apple cider brewed by her sister. Her family has lived on this land for a century; it was her mother, Iris, who turned the farm into a restaurant two decades ago.