Engineering achievements abound in Jungfrau, but somehow the region has retained its quaint, wooden chalet Alpine charm. And nowhere more so than Grindelwald, a village sitting pretty beneath Schwarzhorn’s 2,928m peak. Descending on the steep blues and reds at the top of Grindelwarld’s Oberjoch peak, I drop below the treeline to crisscross runs full of tobogganers shuttling around under the Wetterhorn’s imposing flanks, skiing through villages fragrant with the heady smells of farmyards and wood smoke.