The trompo is worth ordering for the visuals alone, even if the flavor of the meat, seasoned only with salt, nearly vanishes between the tortilla’s dusky masa sweetness and a tangy, pond-green salsa of avocado and tomatillos. I’d more heartily recommend the carnitas, a straightforwardly wonderful taco of pork ribs and belly slow-cooked until a collapsing mess, or my favorite, surprisingly—the mushroom taco. Too often a vegetarian afterthought, here it’s beautifully complex, with moody, silken petals of creminis and shiitakes. With apologies to vegetarians, I loved it topped with crushed chicharron from the self-serve salsa station, a crunchy contrast to the shrooms’ slippery softness.