
2026-01-04 1162词 晦涩
The biggest story of the Jamaican patty lately has been its inroads into the higher end, following the same trajectory as pizza and bagels before it. Perhaps the first New York chef to place the patty on a pedestal was Kwame Onwuachi, in 2022, when he opened Tatiana, his glittering Lincoln Center restaurant, with a menu that included miniature, semicircular pastries filled with spicy curried goat. Onwuachi is a poetic interpreter of New York’s Black culinary vernacular, and his upscale patties shared a menu with versions of other dishes generally considered unworthy of haute-culinaire attention—corner-store snack cakes, a truffled chopped cheese. But earlier this year he democratized his vision with Chef Kwame’s Patty Palace, an apparent chain in the making, which began with a stall at Citi Field and recently expanded to Union Square’s Time Out Market food hall. The patties at the Palace are full-sized and set into big, steamy wedges of gently sweet coco bread. Similar to the patties served at Tatiana, they come with a pair of sauces—here, it’s a slathering of jerk-spiced barbecue sauce and a tart green hot sauce, along with a bright tangle of ginger-cabbage slaw. Whether you’ve chosen a flaky pastry stuffed with piquant, cumin-scented curried chicken, or a doughy baked shell wrapped around bland and mushy jerk-spiced mushrooms, the forceful toppings tend to overpower whatever’s going on inside the patties themselves. Still, the sandwiches are awfully good.
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