This could have easily been chaos, but it reads as mere idiosyncrasy, thanks to the sheer force of Wild Cherry’s appeal as a place to while away a few stylish hours. The music is hopping (when was the last time you heard “Ca’-Ba’-Dab,” by the Soul Swingers, and why isn’t every restaurant playing it on a loop?), and the mood is as warm as the lighting, with affable servers and bar staff whose enthusiasm is infectious. The cocktails skew tiki—a quart-size scorpion bowl with your dinner?—but they’re great, well-balanced and cleverly composed, like a zero-proof piña colada that gets heft and depth from hojicha, or a sherry highball tarted up with amaro and a splash of cola.