One of my favorite Bistrot dishes—braised leeks standing upright in a sauce gribiche so chunky that it’s nearly egg salad—was also one of the best I had on my first visit to the Snack Bar, though the columns of leek have been updated with a finial of marinated mussels. A pho-spiced French-onion soup that I saw on the menu at the Bistrot one week was, by the next, moved around the corner to the Snack Bar. Burns explained to me, on the phone, that the dish just felt more right there, and I don’t know exactly why, but I get it completely. They’ve ported over, in the opposite direction, their signature vol-au-vent, which was once the centerpiece of the Snack Bar menu but is much more at home in the romantic light of the Bistrot. It involves a buttery bowl of puff pastry filled with an ever-changing array of fricassées; I relished one with tender hunks of stewed lamb shoulder in a grass-green sauce made of lime leaf and mint, equally reminiscent of British Sunday roasts and South Asian braises, though, another time, the pastry contained a take on shaking beef (a Vietnamese stir-fry also known as bò lúc lắc), with chewy steak and bits of onion, evocative mostly of week-night takeout.